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How to Build a Timber Paling Fence: Step-by-Step Guide

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How to Build a Timber Paling Fence: Step-by-Step Guide

A complete guide to building a timber paling fence in Melbourne — from setting posts and rails through to nailing palings and finishing the top.

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FPM Building Supplies
••6 min read
Last updated: August 13, 2026
How to Build a Timber Paling Fence: Step-by-Step Guide

A timber paling fence is a classic Australian boundary fence — affordable, attractive, and straightforward to build with basic carpentry skills. This guide covers the full process from setting posts through to the finished fence, using materials available from FPM Building Supplies.

Timber Species: What to Use

The species you choose affects both the look and the longevity of the fence.

Hardwood palings (100mm or 150mm): Spotted gum, ironbark, or similar. Durable, dense, and resistant to rot and termites. The premium choice for a fence that will last 30+ years with minimal maintenance.

Treated pine palings: The most common and affordable option. Use H3 treatment for above-ground applications. Expect 15–25 years in Melbourne's climate.

Fence posts:

  • Hardwood posts (125×75mm): Excellent durability in ground contact. Suitable for standard 1.8m fencing.
  • Cypress posts (125×75mm, 125×125mm, 100×100mm): Naturally termite-resistant and durable. A good choice in areas with termite pressure.
  • Treated pine posts (H5): The budget option. H5 treatment is required for in-ground use.

Rails: 75×50mm or 100×50mm treated pine or hardwood. Two rails for fences up to 1.5m, three rails for 1.8m fences.

What You'll Need

  • Fence posts (see species guide above)
  • Rails — 75×50mm or 100×50mm
  • Palings — 100mm or 150mm width, 1.8m length
  • Capping board (optional but recommended)
  • Rapid-set concrete for post footings
  • Galvanised nails or screws (never use ungalvanised fixings outdoors)
  • String line and stakes
  • Post-hole digger or auger
  • Spirit level
  • Circular saw or drop saw
  • Hammer or nail gun

Step 1: Plan and Mark Out

Mark the fence line with a string line and stakes. Mark each post position at 2.4m centres (or 1.8m for a stronger fence). Mark corner posts, end posts, and gate posts separately.

Check with your local council and notify your neighbour under the Fences Act 1968 before starting work on a boundary fence.

Call Dial Before You Dig (1100) before any excavation.

Step 2: Set the Posts

Post hole depth for a 1.8m fence:

  • Standard posts: 600mm minimum
  • Corner and gate posts: 700–800mm

Hole diameter: approximately 3× the post width.

  1. Set the two end posts first, checking plumb in both directions with a spirit level
  2. Run a string line between end posts at the top as an alignment guide
  3. Set each intermediate post to the string line, checking plumb
  4. Pour rapid-set concrete around each post and brace until set
  5. Allow 24 hours before attaching rails

Tip: Set posts with the best face outward (toward the street or neighbour). The post should be plumb, not leaning — even a small lean looks obvious once the palings are on.

Step 3: Attach the Rails

Rails run horizontally between posts and support the palings. For a 1.8m fence, use three rails:

  • Bottom rail: 150–200mm above ground level
  • Mid rail: Approximately 900mm from the ground
  • Top rail: 100–150mm below the top of the posts

Fix rails to posts with 75mm galvanised nails or 65mm screws, two fixings per rail end. Check rails are level as you go — uneven rails make paling installation much harder.

For a neater finish, notch the rails into the posts (housing joint) rather than face-fixing them. This is stronger and looks more professional.

Step 4: Nail the Palings

This is the most time-consuming part of the job, but also the most satisfying.

  1. Start at one end post and work along the fence
  2. Hold the first paling plumb against the post and nail through the paling into each rail — two nails per rail, one near each edge
  3. Use a spacer (a scrap of paling works well) to maintain consistent gaps between palings — typically 5–10mm for a standard paling fence
  4. Check plumb every 5–6 palings and adjust if needed
  5. At the end of each bay (between posts), measure the remaining gap and cut the last paling to fit

Paling spacing: A small gap between palings allows for timber movement and improves airflow. A tight-butted fence (no gap) looks neater but can cause palings to cup and split as the timber dries.

Nail type: Use 50mm or 60mm galvanised flat-head nails. Stainless steel nails are worth the extra cost for hardwood palings — they won't rust-stain the timber.

Step 5: Install Capping

A capping board runs along the top of the fence, covering the top edges of the palings and the top rail. It:

  • Protects the end grain of the palings from water ingress (the main cause of rot)
  • Gives the fence a clean, finished appearance
  • Adds rigidity to the top of the fence

FPM stocks hardwood and treated pine capping boards. Fix with 75mm galvanised nails or screws, pre-drilling to prevent splitting.

Alternatively, a pointed or rounded paling top (cut on-site or ordered pre-cut) can be used instead of a flat capping board.

Step 6: Finish and Treat

Treated pine: No further treatment is required for above-ground H3 timber. However, painting or staining will significantly extend the life of the fence and improve its appearance. Use an exterior-grade timber stain or paint.

Hardwood: Hardwood can be left to weather naturally to a silver-grey, or oiled with a penetrating timber oil to maintain the natural colour. Oil every 2–3 years.

Cut ends: Always treat cut ends of timber with an end-grain sealer or timber preservative. End grain absorbs water much faster than face grain and is the most common point of rot entry.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Posts not plumb. The most common mistake. A leaning post looks obvious and makes the whole fence look unprofessional.

Insufficient post depth. Shallow posts will move in Melbourne's clay soils. Follow the depth guide above.

Using ungalvanised fixings. Standard steel nails will rust through within a few years, leaving rust stains on the timber and eventually failing. Always use galvanised or stainless fixings.

No capping. Uncapped palings absorb water through the end grain and rot from the top down. Capping is a small cost that significantly extends fence life.

Wrong post species for in-ground use. Not all timber is suitable for in-ground contact. Use H5 treated pine, hardwood, or cypress for posts.

Use the Timber Fence Estimator

Not sure how many posts, rails, and palings you need? Our free Timber Fence Estimator calculates exact quantities for your fence length and height — including posts, rails, palings, and capping.

Materials from FPM Building Supplies

FPM stocks hardwood fence posts (125×75mm), cypress posts (125×75mm, 125×125mm, 100×100mm), hardwood and treated pine palings (100mm and 150mm), rails, and capping boards from our Epping warehouse. Contact our team for trade pricing and delivery across Melbourne and Victoria.

Explore Topics

#timber fencing#paling fence#DIY#fencing#hardwood#cypress
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